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Sewing a wedding dress: Corselet construction eye-candy

October 23, 2015
Corselet with catch stitching

I have a few more pictures of corselet construction to share, it is the most mysterious part of sewing your own wedding gown so I’m happy to overload you with detail in this area.

My finished corselet took around 3 months. After fine tuning the pattern in black canvas I cut and assembled the final product in a beautiful white coutil purchased from aussiecorsetsupplies.com.au I pre washed half of the fabric but decided to use the non pre-washed half as I liked the additional stiffness. If I made this dress again I would use the pre-washed coutil as it was a really challenging sew. So stiff! The process was exactly the same as I’ve already documented here so I’ll just provide the sewing-nerd-eye-candy showing how it came together:

wedding dress construction

wedding dress construction

Note the thread tracing of every seam plus the waist line – this is the key to a corselet that is well engineered!

wedding dress construction

Giving everything a good press prior to catch stitching and inserting the bust pieces.

wedding dress construction

The curved seam joining the cups to the corselet was an utter nightmare, but look at that glorious catch-stitching!

When the bones went into the corselet and I stood back to admire my handiwork I realised that I had spent 3 months making a corselet. with 10 weeks to go I didn’t have a single stitch of wearable dress. But I knew all along the pattern I would use as the basis for my dress was this vintage beauty I picked up on Etsy, simplicity 2442:

simplicity 2442

Simplicty 2442 – “With details printed on each pattern piece!”

I thought the large scale print on the envelope was fabulous, and started searching for the perfect fabric to replicate this look in a way that didn’t say “I got involved in the finger painting on my wedding day”

My next post will describe my fabric, how I worked with it and how it influenced the design of the dress.

Thanks for reading!

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