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Sewing a Wedding dress: Organza Bonanza

December 1, 2015
wedding dress fabric

After a long and tiring search I finally settled on a bolt of stunning silk Organza Jacquard for my wedding dress fabric. I created a pinterest board full of fantastic organza creations –  Organza really is a wonderful versatile fabric and was a dream to sew.

organza_jacquard

I had heard that expensive fabric is easier to handle and sew than cheap fabric – and boy was that true! I underlined my fabric with a beautiful heavy silk and it took the stitches beautifully – I did baste everything together extremely carefully so perhaps I do deserve some of the credit 🙂

After sewing and fitting my corselet for so long I got used to a very close fit through the whole bodice, and wanted to maintain that in the finished dress, which this Rochas dress seems to do really cleverly. After trying to work out how the bodice was constructed I added a horizontal dart in the centre of the bust piece, and then excluded the dart by adding a horizontal seam right across the bust apex. This really was risky and could have looked terrible, but I think it helped modernise a very traditional silhouette.

I just draped the skirt on my dress form in muslin and basted the pleats in place, then I put the seams between silk panels in the depth of the pleats to hide them, this was very effective I think:

wedding dress fabric

I really felt like I had a dress at this point ! After joining the bodice and skirt I then joined the dress to the corselet at the waist (between the bones only)

 

bodice and corselet

Finishing the neckline of the dress was surprisingly time consuming. I was totally at a loss how to attach the bodice to the corselet with a clean finish, and someone on patternreview.com suggested a simple facing at the neckline – this saved the day and worked extremely well.

bodice_facing2

waist stay

waist stay

waist_stay1

And a whole lot of hemming + a zip insertion later the dress was done !

Next up I’ll reveal my finished dress. Thanks for reading 🙂

tanya
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